cooking

Thanks to the Barefoot Contessa, I really was able to assemble a pretty stress-free Thanksgiving dinner. Aside from the desserts I posted and my favorite creamy Brussels spouts, I followed the recipes for:

A mushroom and leek bread pudding.
This is a nice alternative to stuffing, but I might just serve the sauteed leeks and mushrooms with tarragon as a dish by itself. Once it was baked with the bread and eggs, the flavors became a bit muddy. Before, the mushrooms were super good.

Spinach Gratin
A tasty dish and a bit more elegant than creamed spinach. Very very rich. I might add an egg or two next time so that it comes together a little better.

Some friends brought the Mashed and Sweet potatoes, as well as a bunch of steamed vegetables, and a fabulous Cranberry Orange Sauce from Martha Stewart.

As for the Turkey. Its not so easy to get good fresh turkey here. I've occasionally seen organic ones from France, but more often than not, these have been frozen multiple times and don't taste very nice.
I usually just go with a butterball, better cold chain-consistency.  I brined it overnight with allspice, ginger, sage, cloves, garlic, and onions and roasted it at 170 for 20min per pound. It was nice and moist, but definitely left me craving a 'closer to the ground' bird.

Everyone's making peanut soba noodles everywhere in the food-blog-o-sphere.

101 Cookbooks - Lazy Day Peanut Noodle Salad
Food.com - Cold Peanut Soba Noodles
Post Punk Kitchen - Ginger Peanut Soba Noodles

These are just a few of my favorites.

Here's my contribution to the question:

1 package buckwheat soba
1/3 cup Jif or other creamy peanut butter (I like the balance of sweet and salty in Jif)
1/4 cup lower-sodium tamari soy sauce.
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 generous splash of Frank's hot sauce
1 clove garlic
1 thumb ginger
about 8oz well drained, firm tofu (this I had marinated in lemon juice ginger and garlic, but plain tofu will do fine here).
green onions
asparagus
green beans or snowpeas or sugar snap peas or edamame
1/2 cup roasted salted (or unsalted) peanuts

Cook the soba according to package directions. When I drain them, I usually pour the boiling water over the beans & peas to save cooking them separately.
In a bowl, combine peanut butter, tamari, rice wine vinegar, hot sauce and the garlic and ginger (either very finely chopped or pressed). Add noodles, mix well.
Let the vegetables sit in the water until bright green and a bit tender. Drain, add to noodle mixture. Top with green onions and the peanuts.
This is a dish with infinite possibility of course. Pretty much any vegetable is going to work here. Try red pepper and broccoli, shiitaki mushroom and fresh peas etc. etc.

Thursday is the beginning of the Arabic weekend. As such, I decided to make fish tonight. I know that I am supposed to eat fish on Fridays because that is what Catholics do, but I have to say the association for me is more with a fish dinner starting the weekend than it is with Friday, the day in particular.
I used to love to come home to the parent's house on Friday nights when I was working and still living with them. I would be handed an enormous glass of wine by my mother and a beautiful bowl of linguini and clams by my dad followed by a slab of codfish cooked in a very particular way. (Which if any of you know how to do it, please tell me, I cannot remember...)
So, tonight I made fish.
I had 3 good sized pieces of white fish, 500g or 1lb. Not sure exactly what, maybe haddock? from the co-op. This afternoon, I put it in a baking dish with a bit of olive oil in the bottom and covered the fish with a tomato-basil pesto (basically throw a jar of pesto into the blender with a couple of fresh tomatoes and an extra clove of garlic or two). Baked it in the oven for about 20min at 200C.
Served it with some vegetables and aglio olio. Anchovy, garlic and oil sauce because there is no way on earth I'm going to eat warm water clams (hepatitis specials). This is one of those things that if you are familiar with the quahog, you will have sympathy for me. If you aren't, just write me off as an insane Italian/American. Tomorrow maybe I will tell you what to do with quahogs if you are so lucky as to have access to them...

I've never been much of a date eater. Sometimes they make me think of big beetles with their glossy outer shell. And at this time of year, the smell of date palms can be sort of overwhelmingly sticky sweet.
Lately though, I'm kind of getting into them, especially for their versatility in baking. They add sweetness and fiber without losing softness in the crumb. Try these muffins, they are absolutely delicious and super-simple.

Click on the picture for a chart of all the different kinds. Still prefer the california medjool, but my palate is expanding.

Apologies to the Americans for the metric notations... back in the ME, you know...

300g strong whole wheat flour
a scant 50g caster sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
dash salt
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ginger
100g dates pitted
1 banana
1 egg
1 1/4 cup soy milk (or milk)
1/4 cup canola oil (or melted butter)

Pre-heat oven to 180 C. Grease and flour a 12 muffin, medium size tin. In a large bowl, fork sift flour, sugar, baking powder, spices and salt.
In a blender, combine the dates, banana, soymilk, and oil. Pour this mixture into the dry ingredients and add the egg. Stir.
Scoop into muffin tins. Bake for about 15min, check them at 12.

Features

• Set of 2 cooking cones, 1 for a chicken, 1 for up to an 18-pound turkey
• Ceramic glazed inside and out for easy dishwasher clean-up
• Unglazed bottom sits directly on a grill; wide base won't tip over
• Inside holds beer, juice, or marinade to add moisture to a bird
• Chicken cone measures 5 by 4-1/4 inches; turkey, 6 by 6 inches

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Amazon.com
These two ceramic cones, one for a chicken and one for a turkey, make an easier and safer alternative to cooking with an actual beer can. The method is the same: liquid is put in a cylinder that goes up inside the bird's cavity, and as the liquid heats during grilling it creates steam that keeps the bird moist. Beer isn't even required-the Sittin' Chicken or Sittin' Turkey cones can hold butter, olive oil, garlic, fruit juice, soda, or chunks of onion, apple or lemon. For extra flavor marinade can be injected into the bird and the outside rubbed with spices. An onion or potato stuffed in the neck opening of the bird helps keep the moisture in. After a couple hours of slow cooking on the grill, the result is a bird crispy on the outside with flavorful and moist meat.

The ceramic cones are designed with wide bases to prevent tipping, and are glazed inside and out to make clean-up a snap-the cones go right into the dishwasher. Spraying a cone with a nonstick vegetable spray before sitting the bird on top will make the job even easier. The underside of the base is unglazed to go directly on a grill. If the cones are used in an oven, a pan of water or sheet of aluminum foil needs to go underneath to catch drips. The Sittin' Chicken measures 5 by 4-1/4 inches, while the Sittin' Turkey measures 6 by 6 inches and can hold a turkey weighing up to 18 pounds. This set with one of each makes a great gift for the outdoor chef. --Ann Bieri

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I've been avoiding this blog for a while. I've just had too much going on. Too much fear and too much sadness. Things are looking up, though, and I'm feeling rather blessed by my immediate and extended family. As part of the post-traumatic event doings, we are having lots of guests which has me in the mode of preparing food in advance so I don't have to worry too much about feeding people while they are here.

I made these enchiladas last night and enjoyed them with good friends today for lunch.

Spray an 8"X8" glass baking pan lightly with cooking oil spray (I avoid the ones with silicone and/or propellants and just buy the supermarket version with only oil). Cover the bottom of the pan with corn tortillas, break them up to get into the corners. Top with black beans, shredded leftover chicken or pork and some cheddar soy-cheese (or real cheese if your guts haven't betrayed you...). Keep layering like this until the pan is about 80% full. You can also take each tortilla and fill it with the beans, chicken and cheese and roll them up individually, but I find the lasagne method a little faster and easier (tastes the same...)
There are lots of options for the sauce:
11/2 cup green chile salsa, blended with 1/2 cup pureed pumpkin and two garlic cloves
2 cups chunky 'fresh salsa'
2 cups classic red enchilada sauce

Whatever you make, top the enchilada with it, cover with foil and either refridgerate or bake at 350 for about 30minutes. Serve with sour cream, chives and some cold salsa.

Features

• Holds up to an 18 pound turkey; cooks at approximately 3-1/2 minutes per pound.
• 1800-watt heating element; 120-minute timer
• 2.5-gallon stainless steel reservoir
• Aluminum frying/rotisserie basket; rotisserie function uses 1/3 less oil
• Limited Five Year Motor Warranty

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Product Description
Thanksgiving may never be the same! The Waring Pro Professional Turkey Fryer lets you deep fry a turkey up to 18 pounds in just over an hour! The secret is a rotisserie function that alternates direction, turning the turkey to cook evenly, keeping all the natural juices inside. And it does it all using 1/3 less oil than conventional fryers. Remove the rotisserie to deep fry huge portions of all your favorites, like chicken wings, French fries and onion rings. And if thats not enough, you can fill the 2.5-gallon stainless steel reservoir with water instead of oil and youve got a steamer big enough for a clambake! Features an 1800-watt heating element, a stainless steel vented lid to keep things crispy, plus a 120-minute timer and Power and Ready indicator lights to give you perfect results.

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Features

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Product Description
Pop-up timer for a perfectly cooked bird everytime. Simply insert timer into turkey and legs pop up when it is fully cooked. Ideal for cooking turkey and chicken. Made of food-grade silicone and steel. Re-usable more than 300 times.

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Braciole, its pretty much the platonic antithesis of a vegan foodstuff. I've actually had a dream about it. I'm not entirely certain of how you make it, this is cobbled from my memories. Dear Siblings, chime in here if I'm forgetting things...

You need about 1lb round steak as thinly sliced as you can get it. Once again, advantage Rhode Island. At holiday time in RI, supermarkets carry 'braciole' meat all ready to go. Otherwise you will have to flatten it. Its much more fun to do this with a rolling pin than a meat mallet. Make sure you put the meat between two sheets of saran or waxed paper (you will die from the mess if you don't) and pound it as thinly as you possibly can. Eye round is pretty tough stuff, its going to bounce back a little no matter what you do here....

In a small, separate bowl, combine 1/2 cup breadcrumbs (Progresso, Italian style- which you can get in Dubai! hooray!), 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese, a good shake of garlic powder and a lot of chopped parsley (maybe a full 1/4 cup).

Take a piece of the flattened meat and layer it with one slice of cotto or polish ham. (A lot of people use prosciutto for this, but I tend to think its a waste of good cured meat, since you are going to cook it and most of the flavor will go into the gravy) and a thin slice of mozzarella cheese. Sprinkle this with the breadcrumb mixture and roll up your braciole.

Now, the critical part. You have to tie it up. You need the right kind of unbleached cotton twine for this. I'm really bad at explaining how to do this, here's a photo:

Make sure its very very tightly tied, because you need to cook them in gravy after. You want to use just one piece of string so it is easy to cut off to serve. Toothpicks are ok in a pinch, but make sure you remove them all and watch out for splinters (ick.)

When you've rolled all the beef up take a well oiled baking sheet and lay them out on it. Cook them, turning once for about 5 -7 min on each side at about 400 degrees. Then add them to a pan of gravy (click for gravy recipe you will want to double this and add a bit of wine to it for cooking the braciole) for a few hours.

I think I might have to have this instead of Turkey for Thanksgiving. Its very hard to find good turkey here....

Features

• Easy to read dial
• 12 inch shaft for measuring temperatures
• Measures temps from 50 degrees to 550 degrees fahrenheit

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Product Description
Stay on top of the oil temperature in your fryer with the 12" Deep Fry Thermometer. This durable stainless steel fryer accessory reads temperatures from 50 - 750F. The thermometer's long stainless steel stem makes it ideal for any container and comes with an adjustable stainless steel mounting bracket to keep it in place in the fryer. Color coded dial for safety helps you see when oil is ready for cooking or starting to get too hot.

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So I go to the co-op and ask for 3 whole pumpkins. "WHOLE pumpkins, madam?!?!" "I really like pumpkin..." We are going to carve them for Halloween, but I can't really explain this. I can say 'I really like pumpkin' أود حقا اليقطين in Arabic, I hope that's what I said. You can see where it has the potential to be a bit of a minefield... They were laughing at me, not in a dirty way, so I think I got it right... I hope...


Some things to do with pumpkins:
The easiest way to cook pumpkin for a puree later is to slice it in half, lay the cut sides down on a well oiled baking sheet and bake it. The flesh will steam itself but retain a lot more sweetness than it will if you boil it.

1. Substitute one cup of cooked, pureed pumpkin for banana in banana bread or muffins.
2. Blend pumpkin puree with chili, garlic, and tomatillo salsa for a delicious enchilada sauce.
3. Cook pumpkin puree with sage and butter and serve over pasta (with or without Parmesan cheese).
4. roast chunks of pumpkin with salt pepper and olive oil (toss in a salad with goat cheese, sweet corn, arugula, pomegranate seeds...)
5. Add 1/2 cup cooked pureed pumpkin and 1 tsp. ginger to your pancake recipe.
6. Use 8oz of pumpkin puree in a NY style cheesecake recipe (add an extra egg...).
7. pumpkin pie of course, drizzle it with chocolate ganache for a twist, surprisingly yummy.
8. pumpkin soup with turmeric, curry and ginger.

One of the few meals that all members of the clan agree on is Arabic Junk Food from the Eat & Drink Restaurant. Which has, I am happy to report, one of the weirder websites I have ever seen. ~Do hesitate not to visit! Make an especial note of woman breathing fumes of burger! Delicious.~
Middling English fluency is so awesome.

Tonights dinner of two chicken kabab platters and two lamb kabab platter set us back a whopping 66 UAE dirhams, that's $17.98 for:

20 kebabs (12 lamb, 8 chicken I've been told I should order Chicken Shish Tawok next time because its chicken chunks rather than ground chicken meal which is tasty but well, dodgy.)
4 pints of hummus (personal favorite throughout the city- perfectly balanced tahini & chick pea, creamy, but you can still taste the chick peas...)
6 large arabic flat bread rounds
1 pint of yogurt sauce
1 large green salad
assorted pickles
french fries (They sprinkle these on top of the kebab to soak up the grease I think, rendering them extra delicious...)
Truly enough food to feed an army at an amazing price mostly vegetarian friendly if you just skip the kebab too!

Features

• Fits up to a 20 pound turkey
• Removable roasting pan for easy clean-up
• Lid rest for convenient serving
• Removeable Stainless Steel Rack
• From Oster

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Product Description
Cooks a 20 pound turkey with ease. Frees up oven space!

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Features

• 5 simple steps to your best tasting turkey ever
• Kit Includes brine mix, one large brining bag, recipes and instructions
• All Natural kosher with no artificial flavors
• Gluten and Nitrate Free
• 24.5 ounces

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Product Description
Rosemary, bay leaves and thyme blend to create the ultimate herb flavor brine for juicy and tender turkey every time. With the Turkey Perfect Herb Brining Kit from Fire & Flavor you are just 5 simple steps away from a delicious turkey with a crisp, golden skin. Brining is a process that greatly improves the flavor and moisture content of lean meats like chicken, turkey, and pork. By brining, you trap in moisture and create unforgettable juiciness and flavor in the meat.

Ingredients: kosher salt, herbs, and black peppercorns.

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I've decided to add cookbook reviews to this blog. Especially since lately I've acquired about 10 for birthday's and other gifts.

The Healthy Kitchen: recipes for a better body, life and spirit. by Andrew Weil, MD and Rosie Daley

Spoiler: This is actually not a bad cookbook if you can get past all the annoying 'health' chatter.

Layout: The book has a lot of nice color photos and is set up into easy to search sections. I'm super curious about the relationship between the two authors, there are numerous pictures of her feeding him and them standing very very close. They seem awfully intimate for a book that doesn't mention the relationship. His recipes and health screeds are in blue sections and her 'Tips' are in yellow. He spends an awful lot of time discussing 'best quality' ingredients in a health context and I wish they had included a section on where to acquire some of the more morally elevated foodstuffs...

Recipes: In general, if their recipe seems too healthy to be good, it is. Multi-Grain Scones are completely gross, made with canola oil rather than butter, they have a greasy, nasty consistency. I'm not even sure I could coat these with borax and use them as ant-bait. Entrees like Grilled Ahi Tuna with Cilantro Ginger Sauce, however, are yummy. As long as what they are making is what it is, not a lame attempt a healthy imitation of something more delicious, the recipes are quite serviceable.
I also really enjoyed reading all of the fresh salsas and relishes they use throughout. These are definitely worth trying.

Other info: Dr. Weil sprinkles a lot of 'health' information in one-page essays throughout the book. I personally found his advice contradictory and sort of annoying a lot of the time. He is definitely a 'nutritionist' in Michael Pollan's worst sense of the word. There's way too much time spent on substitution and way too little spent on talking about balance in the diet. The 'Tips from Rosie's Kitchen' sections are annoying and really a little too obvious; i.e. "When you have more bananas than you know what to do with, don't throw them away!" Seriously, thanks....

I wish the authors of books like this would admit you CAN'T have your cake and eat it too, if you are focusing on the health qualities of food, anyway. On balance, not really worth owning. Get it from the library, it does have some utility.

Day two of this menu planning program went something like this:

Breakfast:
Cereal with milk
Poached eggs

Lunch
PB&J on toast
Turkey and camembert (just brought in from Lyon)
Pasta with butter
Its a bit of a restaurant here at lunch.

Snack
Popcorn & Juice

Dinner
Meatloaf (1lb meat, 1 egg, 1/4 cup breadcrumbs, tbsp katchup, tbsp brown mustard, pepper, 1 clove garlic, 1/2 onion)
Steamed broccoli
Steamed brown basmati rice

Plus leftover dahl curry & chana masala for the grownups on their rice.

Other things I'm doing to create a harmonious style are getting dressed to shoes each morning and making the beds. I've also got the boys putting away their own laundry and clearing up after dinner... swanky.

Features

• Make a fun and festive cake
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• Nordic Ware 3D Great Pumpkin Pan

Product Description
Sure to inspire oohs & ahhs, the cake you make with our turkey pan will be the star of the table. Heavy cast aluminum bakeware provides superior baking performance. Baked goods rise evenly, cook uniformly, are finely detailed and have delicious golden crusts due to the heavy duty walls of the pan. Our special heat reflective exterior and premium non-stick surface assures perfect stick-free results. Proudly made in the USA by Nordic Ware.

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The in-laws are descending. Tonight, burgers on the grill. My DH, who has been away too long, picked up the bathroom copy of Ina Garten's Barefoot Contessa At Home (which every family needs). He has become fixated on a delicious-looking blue cheese burger. I'm not about to impose my new-found veganism on my husband (or his family for that matter) so I'm making them.

I'm modifying her recipe a bit, using 1 lb ground turkey and 1lb ultra-rich ground beef from our town farmer's market. Mixing them up with 1 egg, a generous bunch of garlic powder and some fresh basil and oregano.
These went on the grill for 5 min on one side, 3 on the other and were topped with tomato, lettuce, onion and blue cheese. I hear they were good. I ate a grilled portobello mushroom which was tasty but wasn't a burger...

Medzo is an Italian restaurant in the Wafi Mall which our dining companions assured us is 'The best Italian place in Dubai'. And, I have to say, I was fairly sceptical going in. The Wafi restaurants are all good enough, but, in my opinion, tend to err on the side of keeping tourist diners happy by avoiding anything too creative. On balance, Medzo avoids this trap, comes up with some delicious offerings in the process, and only makes the very tiniest of slips.

The restaurant's interior is pleasant, all beige, pink, and off white. The vestibule and long hall enhance the sense of stepping into a secure, quiet, and elegant world. The dining room is immaculate & uncluttered. The outdoor dining area is well surrounded by greenery to help isolate you from the clubby scene at other Wafi restaurants. The non-Italian concept of Oasis is much in play at Medzo.

For wine, our dining companions ordered a 2010 Banfi Chianti Superiore. I'm not a huge Chianti fan, so its not my favorite. What I did note was the flawless wine service our waiter delivered. So many staff in Dubai restaurants do not know how to perform this simple part of table service, it was truly refreshing, not a drop spilled, no bottles touching glass, each person served in the correct order. The best part was our waiter did this naturally, without awkwardness, and was entirely unobtrusive.

A Tomato crostini amuse bouche and a bread basket arrived quickly after the wine. Foccacia, chopped tomato with a dollop of goat cheese and a delicious, tiny olive punctuated this dish. Some kind of basil pesto was squirted on the plate beneath the bite, my readers know how much I hate this practice, this bit of basil oil belonged on the bite, not under it for you to discover after you have eaten it.

For appetizers, we ordered Beet parcels stuffed with goat cheese, Scallops with truffled polenta and an Asparagus soup. The beet 'ravioli' were very nice, paper thin rounds of roasted red beet stuffed with goat cheese. Tiny cubes of pear dotted the plate. These might have been better as slices, placed on top of the 'ravioli' to be eaten in a single mouthful, but still a very nice appetizer.

Seared scallops were served over a truffle polenta. The scallops were perfectly cooked and seasoned simply with salt and pepper. The polenta suffered a little from being slightly runny and I would have liked this dish to have a stronger truffle flavor. Can't argue with perfectly cooked scallops, though.

For entrees we chose the lamb butterflied and stuffed with olives over roast potato, artichoke and olives, a veal scallopine with pancetta and more of the mushroom polenta and the beef tenderloin. Aside from the slightly undercooked pancetta served with the veal, each dish was prepared and presented with care and deliciously fresh ingredients. Everyone cleaned their plates.

For dessert we had the Sorbet, two dollops each of mango and raspberry served in a silly gigantic platter, awkward, but still very tasty. The pannacotta was perhaps the only non-home run dish of the evening. There was just too much gelatin in it so the consistency was rubbery, rather than the normally smooth unctuous texture pannacotta is known for.

Go to Medzo for the service, for the ambience, for the food. Just go. It really may be the best Italian restaurant in Dubai.

$$$$ ****

We have finally decided to get very serious about changing our diets, before we are confined to hover-chairs... Its not that we eat particularly badly, but we do eat a lot of takeout food and we do eat too much food. And as a result, we have experienced the 'middle-age hip spread' year by year, and find ourselves of significantly larger 'carriage' than in days gone by....

We have chosen to base our diets on the World's Healthiest Foods, by George Mateljian. In part because I lost a good deal of weight following it back when Mr. Muffin Puff Cake was born, in part because all of the recipes actually turn out really deliciously, and in part because it seems to be a sustainable program that can be followed for the rest of our lives.